Neolithic: Francis Pryor
The
Orkney Islands are one huge archaeological site.
There are very few places in Britain where it is possible to view
prehistoric monuments in their original settings. If a Neolithic family
were somehow magicked into the 21st century, they'd still be able to
find their way around their old sites here. Nowhere is more evocative
than the great tomb of
Maes Howe by the Loch of Harray. You
stoop to pass along the entrance passage to the great chamber, where the
echoing acoustic was deliberately engineered by masters of ceremony
from 5,000 years ago.
As a student I watched Terence Stamp lust after Julie Christie on the grassy banks of
Maiden Castle (maidencastle.com, free) in
Dorset,
(filming 1967's Far from the Madding Crowd). The scale of this place
never ceases to amaze me. Within its ramparts (mostly built around
500BC) are a Neolithic enclosure, bronze age barrows and a late-Roman
temple.
Avebury in
Wiltshire is the only place in England that compares to Orkney for
connectedness. Here the visitors can see how prehistoric sites linked
together in an ever-developing ritual landscape. The scale is vast – far
more spectacular, I think, than even Stonehenge. I find it a place for
taking stock; for introspection and assessment.
Jarlshof, Shetland Islands.
Bronze age (2500-800BC): Robert Van de Noort
My favourite bronze age site in the UK is the ancient settlement of
Jarlshof, in Sumburgh on the mainland of
Shetland . Standing on the edge of the North Sea, the settlement
comprises several stone houses with internal buttresses, which are still
several metres high. You can enter and explore these houses without
restrictions. The site was occupied for many centuries after the bronze
age and also includes iron age and Pictish remains. The Old House of
Sumburgh, built by Earl Patrick in the 16th century, can be climbed for
an overview of the settlement.
For the brave, I recommend a visit to the copper mines of the
Great Orme, near
Llandudno in north Wales, the largest prehistoric mine in the world,
reached by climbing the Great Orme, or taking the Victorian tram to the
halfway station. Helmets are provided. Copper – and tin, the key
ingredient of bronze – was mined here 3,500 years ago, using tools of
bone and stone.
Flag Fen, near
Peterborough , is the only place in the UK where you can see bronze age
timbers in situ. Flag Fen was a series of wooden trackways constructed
between two areas of high ground at a time when the sea level slowly
flooded the low-lying embayment. Part of this is on view at the
Preservation Hall, where sprinklers keep the timbers wet to stop them
deteriorating.
Finally, I would recommend a visit to the
National Maritime Museum Cornwall in
Falmouth,
where shipwrights and archaeologists are reconstructing a full-scale
bronze age sewn-plank boat using bronze tools. This type of boat was
made around 2000BC, when seafaring became important for the exchange of
objects such as Beaker pottery, gold, amber, and jet. The Nebra sky disc, which was unearthed in Germany but made with tin and gold from Cornwall, is also on display.
Roman (AD43-410): Mary Beard
I have two favourites. One is the Roman town of
Wroxeter, or Viriconium
, in
Shropshire.
I went on excavations there when I was younger, so I have happy
memories but, more to the point, it has a wonderfully impressive
surviving bit of Roman wall, as well as an outdoor swimming pool (a
triumph of Mediterranean aspirations over British weather). And then
there's
Lullingstone Roman villa, in
Kent,
with its mosaic showing Jupiter, in the form of a bull, carrying poor
Europa off over the sea. And underneath there's an epigram in Latin,
parodying the beginning of Virgil's Aeneid (words to the effect of: "If
Juno had seen this going on, she'd have stirred up the storms even
quicker"). It shows that someone living there knew their Virgil well
enough to joke about it.
Anglo-Saxon (AD410-1066): Simon Keynes
In roughly chronological order, the following are important sites for Anglo-Saxon England.
Sutton Hoo, near Woodbridge,
Suffolk is the seventh-century burial ground of the kings of East
Anglia. The main finds are on display at the British Museum .
Yeavering on the edge of the Cheviots in
Northumberland is the site of a seventh-century Northumbrian royal estate, where
beneath Yeavering Bell hill fort, the Anglo-Saxon kings maintained a
grand palace. At the hill fort you can see ramparts and platforms for
130 roundhouses.
Bede's World in Jarrow,
Tyne & Wear ,
is a heritage
site with exhibitions, replica buildings and a farm. It was a monastic
centre, where in about 730AD the Venerable Bede wrote his Ecclesiastical
History
of the English People, which first created for the English a sense of
their collective identity. Kids can take part in an Anglo-Saxon trial or
learn to be a warrior.
Isle of Athelney in
Somerset, is where King Alfred the Great hid from the Danes when they
invaded Wessex in 878. It's where he burnt the cakes, and later built a
fort and a monastery in gratitude to God for his victory.
The Museum of London has a collection of Viking spears, axes and grappling irons found
at the north end of London Bridge, site of several battles between the
English and the Danes 1,000 years ago, during the reign of King Ethelred
the Unready.
The
British Library in London has a large number of manuscripts on display, including the
Lindisfarne Gospels, the St Cuthbert Gospel, several manuscripts of the
Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, and the manuscript of the Old English poem
Beowulf
The Jorvik Viking Centre, York
Viking (AD793-1066): Stephen Harding
I have to start with the
Wirral I'm afraid, simply
because that's where I was born and bred. Like much of the north-west
coast, the area is crammed with Viking names, including
Tranmere
– the only football team in England with a Norwegian Viking name – and
now host to four spanking new road signs commemorating the site of its
former Viking assembly at Thingwall. Must-sees are the magnificent
Viking hogback tombstone at the church of
St Bridgets at
West Kirby and the reconstructed Irish-Norse cross, showing not pillaging but a Viking couple embracing.
Vikings fans can then pop on the ferry from Liverpool and visit the
Isle of Man,
which, like the Wirral was once a Norse colony, with its Assembly at
Tynwald Hill, in the village of St John's. Stand there and imagine you
were the Viking law-speaker 1,000 years ago, then visit the superb
Braaid Viking farmstead and the reconstructed longship at the
Manx Museum. Then you could hop back over the Irish Sea to the
Largs Viking Festival in
Ayrshire before heading to more former Viking colonies in the
Shetlands and
Orkneys. Next year the largest ever Viking longship reconstruction will sail from Norway, past the islands to Largs, the Isle of Man and Liverpool.
Last but not least,
Jorvik in
York
is an absolute must, and the
train tour through the old Viking town is a most educational and
entertaining experience.
•
Steve Harding, Professor of Applied Biochemistry at Nottingham University is a Viking expert and a Knight of Norway
Tudor (1485-1603): Hilary Mantel
Lewes in
East Sussex breathes history from every
wall and door. Its castle dominates the town, and just outside are the
remains of a great medieval priory . Founded in the 11th century, it was one of the richest monastic
houses in England, with a church the size of a cathedral. In 1537 the
priory was granted to Thomas Cromwell, the architect of the dissolution.
Always a man in a hurry, he brought in an Italian engineer to blow up
the buildings he didn't want, and built a house called Lord's Place for
his son Gregory. The Victorians almost completed the destruction by
putting a railway line through, but the beautiful South Downs setting
survives, and it's a lovely place for a walk.
Just a moment from the priory ruins is
Anne of Cleves House on Southover High Street. It's doubtful Henry VIII's
unwanted fourth wife ever saw this pretty timbered manor, but it was
part of her divorce settlement. Its furnished rooms include a splendid
bedchamber and a kitchen. The museum displays melancholy stone carvings
from the priory, and there is a gallery bristling with weaponry and
ironmongery. A house on this scale, unpretentious and domestic, gives a
better idea of Tudor life than many more celebrated sites, and there's a
calm and pretty garden.
Michelham Priory, near Hailsham in
East Sussex , was another Cromwell property. But this one was treated
more gently, so the moated ruins are extensive and atmospheric. Set
among orchards and vineyards, it was a small house, with just eight
canons in residence in 1537. It's mellow and family-friendly, with a
working watermill, a herb garden and a splendid Elizabethan barn.
Farleigh Hungerford Castle in a green valley on the
Somerset-Wiltshire
border, was built in the late 14th century and owned by the Hungerford
family for 300 years. It's a ruin, though there is an intact chapel
where knights and ladies lie on their tombs. The atmosphere is
especially serene, though it's hard to imagine why, because the
Hungerfords were a villainous crew. A 16th-century Hungerford had her
husband strangled and his remains stuffed in the kitchen furnace.
Another tried to starve his poor wife to death, but Henry VIII's
headsman put an end to his activities. A 17th-century Hungerford gambled
away the manor in a game of bowls. English Heritage has restored the
site in an intelligent and sympathetic way.
Just where you don't expect a Tudor house, on Homerton High Street in gritty Hackney, east
London stands
Sutton House. It was called Bricke Place in 1535, when it was new and gleaming and built amid fields. The National Trust
shows off dark panelled rooms that have survived many owners, but it's
close to my heart because its builder was one of my favourite Tudors.
Trained by Thomas Cromwell, Ralph Sadler attained high favour with Henry
VIII, and built Bricke Place for his bride. Ralph was an ambitious
young courtier and she was a widow, a servant; it was a love match; the
curators will tell you about the bizarre turn that events took when Lady
Sadler's first husband rose from the dead. Ralph Sadler was still
working at the age of 85, in harness at the trial of Mary Queen of
Scots. He outlived all his generation, and died the richest commoner in
England.
17th century: Lucy Worsley
I'm amazed that
Bolsover Castle in
Derbyshire
doesn't cause crashes on the M1. It's perched on a hilltop near
Junction 29a south of Sheffield, and you can't help but stare as you
pass. It looks like a fairytale castle, with dinky battlements and
turrets. Although it appears older, it is a Gothic, chivalric, romantic
recreation of a medieval castle begun in the 1610s. It incorporates
up-to-the-minute details from Italy, such as naked classical gods and
goddesses having an orgy, and "lascivious beasts" decorating the
fountain of Venus in its garden.
The
Banqueting House in Whitehall,
London , designed by Inigo Jones, represents the future of British
architecture. Built in the 1620s, and the only surviving bit of the
great, lost palace of Whitehall, the Banqueting House prefigures all
those later, classical, Georgian museums
and terraces and government buildings. It's easy to miss it as you walk
along Whitehall, because it looks so familiar, but it really was the
first of its kind. Inside, Rubens painted ceilings immortalising the
Stuart dynasty. This is why, in a moment of delicious irony, the
Parliamentarians chose to execute King Charles I directly outside.
Go to
Ham House in
Richmond,
west London, for life after the Restoration, including tiny, richly
decorated 17th-century closets used as repositories for jewels, secrets
and silence. Charles II, his dissolute courtier buddies and his merry
mistresses enjoyed themselves in interiors like these. Nearly a century
from where we started,
Hampton Court Palace heralds the arrival of the baroque and the influence of
France rather than Italy. Built from 1689 by William and Mary, after
they deposed the despotic and Catholic James II, this is a palace for a
pair of constitutional monarchs. It's the British version of Versailles:
Louis XIV was an absolute monarch, and his grandiloquent palace
reflects his absolute power. William and Mary had given some royal power
away to Parliament, so their palace is a cut-price version: beautiful,
yet also warm and friendly, with cheap red brick as well as expensive
white stone.
• Dr Lucy Worsley is the chief curator of Historic Royal Palaces and a TV presenter
Stourhead House, Wiltshire. Photograph: Alamy
Victorian (1837-1901): Ann Heilmann
A favourite place of mine to take visitors – but not before they've read a novel in preparation – is the
Brontë Parsonage Museum in
Haworth.
The picturesque West Yorkshire village near Bradford is surrounded by
the moorland the Brontës described in their work and which was the
setting for Emily's Wuthering Heights. In spring and summer Haworth can
be reached by steam train from Keighley. The Brontë Museum, next to a
rather Gothic cemetery, gives a good sense of the constrained
circumstances of many parsons' families at the time, and its exhibition
includes some of the tiny manuscript books with which the siblings honed
their creative skills.
Tristram Hunt
The
People's History Museum in
Manchester brilliantly depicts the industrial revolution in "Cottonopolis", while in a 19th-century factory in
Stoke-on-Trent,
ceramicist
Emma Bridgewater fires and paints her designs. A visit there is a hands-on entry into the world of industrial production.
The
Birmingham Museums & Art Gallery has one of the great collections of pre-Raphaelite art in a monument to
Birmingham's mid-Victorian ambition to be the Venice of the Midlands.
Glasgow is a fine Victorian city, retaining much of the architecture and civic fabric lost in Liverpool and Newcastle. The
Merchant Quarter gives a sense of the imperial reach and commercial riches of the Second City of Empire.
Castle Drago, Dartmoor. Photograph: Alamy
Edwardian (1901-1910): Roy Hattersley
The Edwardian age – not "the long sunlit afternoon" but an era of
dynamic social progress – is best represented by the cottage in
Llanystumdwy on Wales's
Llyn peninsula
where David Lloyd George, who carried the pensions, health and
unemployment bills through parliament, was raised by his shoemaker
uncle. Great British architect Edwin Lutyens built
Castle Drogo on
Dartmoor,
the "last castle to be built in England" in the 1910s, but his
masterpiece, and the high-water mark of Edwardian grand design, is in
India – the government buildings in New Delhi.